A guide to Molise, Italy’s smallest province punching above its weight

A guide to Molise, Italy’s smallest province punching above its weight

One of Italy’s smallest, and certainly its youngest province, Molise was once part of Abruzzo. Just above Puglia with 35 kilometres of Adriatic coast, ancient Apennine hill towns, and a wealth of natural beauty, it’s still pretty undiscovered. Those who do come are charmed, so here’s a guide to Molise, when you visit, I know you’ll be charmed too!

For centuries shepherds herded their animals along the ancient tratturi from the Apennine hills to the plains of Puglia during the harsh winter months – La Transumanza. It’s a rough and beautiful landscape, where traditional customs and the slow life can be enjoyed, far from tourism. And visitors can practise their Italian – no waiters showing off in English here! The Molisani are proud of their customs, festivals, and natural, seasonal food; artisan cheeses, local truffles, excellent olive oil, unusual wine varieties, grilled meats and the many simple dishes of their cucina povera.

Agnone is a town of artisans. There were once 36 different guilds, a place of wealth and influence. The best copper vessels in all of Italy were forged in 5 foundries along the Verrino river, then hand finished by the master coppersmiths in 171 family workshops. Learn more in our blog post ‘The Master Coppersmiths of Agnone’. The Museo del Rame recounts their story: Museo del Rame

My grandfather’s cousins have been making bells here for over 1000 years. Fonderia Pontificia Marinelli Campane Marinelli is Europe’s oldest family business, the oldest bell foundry in the world, and the only one by papal appointment.

Bells are made by methods unchanged since the middle-ages. 

Gold and silver work is also very important to Agnone’s history, the museum in Isernia has a stunning collection of Agnonese jewellery, together with beautiful Molisani costumes, telling a fascinating social history. Visit Musec.is.it.

Nearby are the ancient Sannite (Samnite) ruins of Pietrabbondante, (meaning ‘plenty of stones’), a sacred site with two temples and an amphitheatre. With views reaching to Campobasso and the sea, we almost always get to explore all by ourselves. This Italic tribe, ancient Rome’s fiercest rival, was eventually defeated, becoming the empire’s bravest warriors. The centrepiece is Pietrabbondante Teatro. There’s a small but exceptional museum telling the Sannite story, and that of the origins of Italy – Museo Sannitico di Campobasso.

One of the best things about Molise is that there are very, very, few foreign tourists so here it is possible to live Italian, speak Italian and eat authentic, simple, and true Italian.

For keen travellers to Italy who have seen the famous sites and cities, a chance to discover this little known region and its continuing traditions, and to practise some Italian, is a delight.

 

Live and Learn Italian offers you study with qualified teachers, while living and engaging with a small community.

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Abruzzo-Molise Heritage Society Q&A

Abruzzo-Molise Heritage Society Q&A

Our good friends at the Abruzzo and Molise Heritage Society in Washington DC kindly asked me to do an interview about our programme for their readers, which was published on their website, where I contribute as a guest blogger. They started with a tough question; ‘What makes Live & Learn Italian different from a typical language school?’ Where do I start!…

 

I keep promising myself that I will hunker down in a quiet (not too quiet) village to improve my Italian. Taking one or two weeks to brush up or even get started on speaking Italian makes perfect sense, doesn’t it? A program in charming Agnone in Molise allows you to study hard and take a holiday at the same time. The name says it all – Live and Learn Italian. A local, independent business whose aim is for a small number of students to integrate themselves into the fabric of the town, to experience the local customs, and engage in the crafts - as a welcomed friend!  Sounds like paradise to me.

1. What makes Live & Learn Italian different from a typical language school?

We are so different from a standard language school - with never more than 12 guests at a time, the emphasis is on integrating everyone into the community during their stay. We do offer classes (3 hours daily + homework!), yes - but the focus is on practising the language, and the rest of the time we join in community events, visit the local artisans and their workshops, or cook and share meals with local families. These activities and so many others are all in Italian because the community is not English speaking at all - and our guests really do get to feel part of it, and that they are living in an authentic town - come and discover your inner Italian!

2. How can a week or two of study also be a holiday?

Well, it’s a learning holiday - no doubt about that. Talks and visits include hearing about the cultural history of the region, and learning a language does take some effort. But combine that with enjoying exceptional produce, visiting family restaurants, local festivals and events, getting out into the incredible nature of the region and relaxing over meals and drinks with a small group of like-minded individuals - and everyone, without exception, has a very fulfilling holiday.

3. How many years has L&LI been in business and what are its origins?

2017 will be our 5th season. I came here to stay with cousins and learn Italian myself and discovered a unique opportunity - a community that does not speak English and is a protector of ancient traditions and world-class artisans. The idea came to me to share this with a few others - to give learners of the language an environment in which they can engage with anyone and everyone! We are mindful of the great gift we have in working with an authentic community, off the beaten track, and we play a small part in keeping aspects of this ancient culture and its traditions alive, without in any way compromising the authenticity. We encourage our guests to explore, learn, and discover, while respecting, protecting and valuing the modest way of life of the region. Working directly with many local families, individuals, and businesses, we are not only providing valued income, but an opportunity to tell their stories, and share their crafts and produce.

4. Typically, who comes to Molise to study with L&L?

Most of our guests are 50+, professionals who have been learning Italian for some time or who have started later in life. Some are recently retired - active people, learning for family reasons, or because they love Italy and the culture and language, and want to be able to converse when they travel. Many are lovers of music, art and architecture, and occasionally we get literature lovers keen to read Dante in the original! We also get second and third generation Italians who are discovering the language of their ancestors.

Credit: Reposted with permission from A Q&A with the Abruzzo-Molise Heritage Society Washington DC’

To find out more about our partner, The Abruzzo & Molise Heritage Society, Washington DC, why not visit their facebook page.

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